11 Eponymous Silk Sarees from Indian States

INDIA & SILK

 Firtsly, the earliest references to silk in India was probably in Valmiki’s Ramayana which refers to the kingdoms of the east as  “the country of cocoon rearers”(wiki) .The production of silk from Kamrupa, present day Assam and other regions in Bengal have references to Tussar & Muga silk. For instance, the Mogoloid race in Assam traded in silk with Tibet, China & Central Asia. Further, according to research by Harvard University, silk production dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization.

India was hence at the centre of the silk route. Let us understand the rich tradition of silks In India. Several Indian States/regions produce an amazing range of silk varieties. For instance, silk sarees and silk fabrics are a tradition, culture & identity of the State. Hence the fabrics are named after the region producing the silk. Let us explore the  fascinating silk producing States  in India from Assam to Tamil Nadu.

1.  Assam Silk -Muga Silk & Endi Silk Sarees

Muga Silk Sarees from Assam

Assam is known for its golden coloured Muga silk, Eri  or Endi silk which is in light/beige cream in colour and pat silk which is white in colour.

Muga silk  has a natural golden colour and a shiny texture. They are  extensively used for sarees and mekala chador, the traditional dress of Assam. Further, they are also used  to make shirts & kurtas. In addition, they were patronised by kings and royalty. The silk is  known for its extreme durability. Muga silk can be washed and dyed. Eri silk is from the cocoon of the eri worm. In addition, the muga silk & eri silk from Assam are also referred to non-violent silk or Ahimsa silk. The silkworm is allowed to leave the cocoon before the silk is produced.

SILK WEAVING CENTRE in ASSAM

Sualkuchi is a silk weaving village,30 kms from the capital city of Guwahati ,on the banks of the river Brahmaputra. In other words, it is well known for silk textiles, both mulberry and muga silk.

The Muga silks are available in Delhi at  :- Pragjyotika, Assam Emporium.

Kolkata – Dakshinapen Mall -Assam Emporium

2. Balucheri Silk Saree-West Bengal

Balucheri Silk Saree From West Bengal

The sarees are characterised by the  depiction of  Hindu epics and mythology in the designs. Scenes from the Mahabharata & Ramayana adorn the pallu of this saree.

Balucheri sarees  are rich silk sarees woven in Murshidabad and Bishnupur villages in West Bengal.  Baluchar in Murshidabad district was the region where this saree weaving technique was originally practised.  Weavers from Dhaka were brought to Murshidabad to aid in crafting these sarees. However, they moved to Bishnupur later.   Further, the designs are drawn on paper and subsequently transferred to wooden frames, called Naqshas. Finally, they are then transferred to the loom to be woven into the main fabric. For instance, Tussar silk is woven in jacquard looms to create this beautiful saree with human forms.

Available in Kolkata :- Kalika , Priyo Gopal Bishoyi

Available in Delhi  Manjusha West Bengal Emporium

3.Banarasi Silk Saree-Uttar Pradesh

Banarasi Silk Saree from Uttar Pradesh

Varanasi ,Banaras is an ancient Hindu holy city on the banks of the river Ganges. The sarees produced here are known as Banarasi sarees.  Silk weaving is a highly skilled tradition in Benaras. Further, the silk weaving techniques were patronised by royalty. It is said that the Mughal ruler Akbar invited Gujarati weavers to this city to be employed in the silk trade. Varanasi was a thriving cotton textile center in teh 16th century. For instance, silk brocade weaving was started in the 17^th century and developed excellence. Above all, floral designs and rich  silk tapestry with a lot of zari or brocade gold thread work are characteristic of Banarasi sarees. Banarasi sarees have a GI Tag to dissuade cheap fakes.

In addition, a Banarasi saree is typically a  part of the bride’s trousseau. For example, the popular varieties of the Banarasi saree include the Kora Organza, Katan silk and the Banarasi georgette.

Shops Available at Delhi:- Banaras Ekaya, Ushnak Mool Chand Madan, Laffaire, Gangotri Emporium,

Available at Kolkata:- Banarsi Kuthi, Priyo gopal

Shop at Chennai:- Man Mandir, Varsidhi

4.Kota Silk-Rajasthan 

Firstly, the town of Kota is in the state of Rajasthan. Kota or Kota Doria is the speciality saree that is characterised by a chequered pattern all over the body. For example, small squares or checks are very transparent and apparent in the design. It is woven in the town of Kota and its neighbouring villages in Rajasthan. Kota in cotton & silk is very popular for sarees, salwar suits, kurtis and dupattas. In addition, they are available in a multitude of pleasing colours. It is primarily worn in the summer months as it is light & airy.Further, Kota silk with mixed gold threads ( zari) and block prints have been introduced in the simple Kota fabrics. Further, it can be worn by both young & old women.

Traditionally they were made only in cotton. However, today t the Kota cotton silk saree is equally popular.

Available at Delhi:-Rajasthali

Shops in Chennai:-Signora Sarees, Man Mandir

 Available at Jaipur:-Ranas, Rattan Deep

5.Patola Sarees-Gujarat 

Patola Sarees From Gujarat

These are sarees  from Pattan in Gujarat

They are expensive sarees once worn by aristocratic families in Gujarat. They are known as double Ikkat sarees woven in Pattan. In addition, they are also woven in Ahmedabad & Surat. Popular designs are said to be woven by the Salvi families, who kept the traditions alive. Warp & the weft  threads are woven using the tie & dye technique. It is a special tie & dye method of weaving. The Ajanta caves depict Patola weaving  tie & dye designs. It is hence an  age old weaving technique practised in that region. Patola sarees use distinct design techniques and the white colour is intricately woven in the designs. The ikkat designs can be found all over the body and the pallu.  In recent times,gold thread designs are being added to the border & pallu for a grander look.

 Patola sarees available at

Delhi:-Gurjari, L’ affaire 

Chennai:-Nalli Silks, Sundari Silks, Varsidhi

 Mumbai at :-Hastkala

 Kolkata:-Gurjari

 Bangalore:-Rangoli, Angadi Silks, Ladies Wear House, Fazals and sons, Priya-Simran’s

6.Chanderi Silks-Madhya Pradesh

Chanderi Silks from Madhya Pradesh

The Chanderi town is in the State of Madhya Pradesh and is 215 kms from Gwalior. The town is surrounded by forests & hills. The Chandela king KirtiVarma was the founder of this town. The Chanderi fabric is from this city. Chanderi silk & cotton are both popular. It is a sheer fabric. It is light and transparent.  Silk, golden zari & cotton yarn are woven together to create this stunning fabric. Block printing is also done in Chanderi fabric. The Chanderi fabric was developed from fine muslin which came with the weavers from Dakka. The sarees are woven with this fine silk material in beautiful colours and with zari.

Chanderi has become a very popular fabric in the last decade. Sarees, dupattas, salwar kameez are all popular in Chanderi. Chanderi cotton silk sarees are also popular.

Available at Delhi :- Mrignayani, Print Center, Kalpana Sarees, Tulsi by Neeru Kumar Kilol

Available at Chennai :- Signora(Chennai), Nalli( Chennai), Varsidhi

Shops in  Kolkata :- Benarasi Kuthi, Kalika

Available at Bangalore :- Gaurang,

7. Paitani Silk Saree-Maharashtra

Paitani Silk Saree from Maharashtra

This is a Maharashtrian saree from the town of Paithan in the Aurangabad district of the State. The Paithani sarees are made in pure silk. They have been produced for over 2000 years and are an essential part of the Maharashtrian bride’s trousseau.

Vibrant & colourful silks with gold in the borders signify the Paithani. For instance, they have contrasting colours on the border with a lot of gold thread work. Floral & brocade motifs ,peacocks and other animal motifs are popular. Further, the plain saree has buttis (dots) in the body. Finally, the saree presents a kaleidoscopic effect. This is due to the double colour used in the weaving technique. The silk is  sourced from Bangalore. Yeola town in Nashik district, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of the Paithani.

Available in Marathi Maharashta State Emporioum

8. Sambalpuri Silk Saree-Odisha

Sambhalpuri from Odissa

This is a traditional handwoven ikaat saree wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. They are woven and manufactured in the Sambalpur District of Odisha. It is a double ikaat saree, similar to the Patola saree from Gujarat. Sonepuri, Pasupali, Bomkai and Bapta are popular varieties of the Sambalpur Ikaat saree.  They are very expensive. The striking border patterns distinguishes the Sambalpuri sarees. Several prominent statesmen from Odisha have contributed to the revival of the Sambalpuri saree. In other words, Government patronage has contributed to the promotion of the Odisha Ikaat. The chaupad (which consists of squares)  is a traditional design with fish  & elephant motifs in the borders. Further there are cotton silk sarees as well.

In other words, there is a distinct focus on flora & fauna in the design. Available in Utkalika Emporium

9.Pochampally Ikaat-Telegnana

Pochampally Ikaat From Telegnana

 There is a small town of nearly 80 villages near Hyderabad in Telengana known Pochampally. In this town, a small community of weavers which works on the handloom pits in their homes. Ikaat is the distinct fabric produced here. It  is a dyeing technique that is created by binding yarns. The dyeing is done keeping the final  patterns in mind. Further,the yarn is dyed and left to dry outside the homes. This is a handloom industry & the weaving is done in homes. The traditional Pochampally is also known as Pochampally ikaat. Gujarat & Odisha are the other States  known for Ikaat weaving patterns. However, the contrasting play with  colours with intricate designs is what distinguishes the Pochampally ikaat saree.

The sarees are available in silk & cotton. In addition, colourful  fabrics in cotton & silk for salwars and dupattas are also available.

Bhoodan Movement

Further, Pochampally is also famous for the Bhoodan movement (land gifting movement). For instance, Acharya Vinobha Bhave started this movement to persuade wealthy landowners to gift a small piece of land to landless farmers in the State.

Available in Lepakshi Emporium

10.Mysore Silk Saree-Karnataka

Mysore Silk saree from Mysore

The State of Karnataka produces the maximum amount of mulberry silk in the country.

 For instance, Tipu Sultan is said to have founded the silk industry in Karnataka. The Maharajahs of Mysore continued their patronage in promoting  silk production. Further, Mulberry silks are exported to other States in the country from Karnataka. For example, Mysore silk  is light weight and is soft and supple as compared to the Kanjivaram silks that are heavy. Mysore silks come with zari borders. Further, they can be used as dress material to make salwar  suits as well. The saree has silk saree blouse design as well.

Available at Chennai:- Prasiddhi Silks, Deepam Silks,  Angadi Silks, RMKV, Tulsi silks

Available at Delhi:- Nalli 

Shop in Bangalore at :- KSIC Mysore Silk, Vijayalakshmi Silks & Sarees, Prasiddhi Silks , Deepam

Available at Kolkata:- Benarasi Kuthi

11.Kanchipuram Silk Saree-Tamil Nadu

Kanchipuram Silk Saree from Tamil Nadu

The  temple town about 70 kms from Chennai is Kanchipuram. It was the capital city of the Pallava kingdom. There are several beautiful temples in this town built during the 7^th C-10^th C. Kanchipuram is also known for its exquisite  Kanchipuram silk  sarees. Saree weaving is a handloom industry. Several prominent shops in Chennai have their own weaving units in this town. The silk procured from Bangalore is woven into exquisite sarees is range of amazing colours. For instance, the saree borders have beautiful zari designs. Further, designs of peacocks, swans, elephants or beautiful flowers  adorn the sarees.

In addition, geometric designs are also used. Further, the gopuram or temple borders still remain in fashion. Red  is the preferred colour of the saree for the bride.

 Further, the body & the pallu are woven separately and then interwoven. For example, silk embroidery or jacquard embroidery is embossed on to the saree.The fabric for the blouse is typically attached to the saree.Hence silk saree blouse designs for this saree is not an issue.

Best shops for Kanchipuram silk sarees 

Weaving India’s Famous Pochampally Ikkat Sarees

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Glossary on Indian Textiles